Sunrise on the Summit

Shrill alarms cut through the cold stillness at 4:30 a.m. We emerged from our tents into a thick pre-dawn chill, bundled in jackets and wool hats, breath visible in the beam of our headlamps. By 5:00 a.m., we were driving slowly up the winding mountain road, past darkened forest and occasional patches of cloud illuminated in our headlights. The summit area was only a short drive away, and when we arrived at the parking lot, the air was just above freezing.

The final trail to the summit is short and easy, a wooden boardwalk through dense, moss-covered forest. Trees leaned inward, coated in lichen and cloud moisture. The path was dim, hushed, and surprisingly atmospheric. The summit itself is marked by a small sign and stupa, not a wide clearing or open viewpoint. But a short walk beyond led us to a modest observation deck where we stood quietly, watching the sky lighten.

As the sun began to rise over the eastern mountains, a soft glow spread across the horizon. Below us was a sea of mist, blanketing the valleys in a rolling, white stillness. The first rays of gold struck the tips of trees and pagodas. In that moment, the summit revealed itself not through grandeur, but in subtle, profound beauty. Cold hands wrapped around cups of instant coffee as we watched the light deepen, a sunrise worth every step and shiver.

Cloud Forest and Ang Ka Nature Trail

With the sun now fully up and warming the trees, we made our way a few minutes downhill to the Ang Ka Nature Trail. This short boardwalk winds through one of Doi Inthanon’s most unique ecosystems — a cloud forest that feels ancient and undisturbed. The air remained cool and heavy with moisture. Moss blanketed every surface, and tree trunks twisted in fantastical shapes under the weight of ferns and orchids.

We walked slowly through the hushed green, pausing often. Light filtered through mist in narrow shafts, illuminating droplets clinging to every leaf and web. The quiet was complete except for birdsong and the occasional creak of the wooden path. Despite its brevity, the trail felt immersive, almost otherworldly. It was one of the most serene moments of the trip.

Gardens at the Twin Pagodas

Later that morning, we stopped at the Twin Royal Pagodas, just a short drive from the summit. These striking structures — one built in honor of the King and the other for the Queen — sit high on a ridge, surrounded by geometric gardens and ornamental shrubs. A short staircase led us to panoramic views across the mountains, with the lower valleys just beginning to shake off their morning haze.

The pagodas are painted in soft pastels and topped with golden spires. In contrast to the rugged natural beauty of the summit, the gardens here were manicured and symmetrical, but still felt peaceful. The contrast between cultivated and wild, spiritual and scenic, gave a fuller picture of Doi Inthanon’s range.

Return to Camp and Winding Down

Back at the campsite by late morning, we were greeted by sunshine and the sound of distant waterfalls. The contrast from the summit was dramatic — from frost to mild spring warmth in just an hour’s descent. We made a late breakfast, then spent the rest of the afternoon slowly packing up, resting, and enjoying the last few hours of forest air. A few of us took one final walk to the edge of the campground, where the trees parted to reveal a sloping view down the mountain.

By mid-afternoon, we were on the road back to Chiang Mai. The drive felt quiet, thoughtful. We descended through layers of green and gold, past villages and roadside stalls, back into the warmth of the valley. The pace of the city resumed gradually. But something of the mountain — the stillness, the clarity — came with us.

Into the Mountain Air

We set out from Chiang Mai early on a Saturday morning, a small group of friends craving a break from the city’s heat and noise. Our plan was simple: a casual weekend camping on Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest mountain, surrounded by nature. At 2,565 meters tall, Doi Inthanon is famed as the highest peak in the country, but reaching the summit wasn’t our main goal. We were more interested in unwinding under the trees, breathing cool mountain air, and waking up to bird song than in any intense trekking. Little did we know a spontaneous idea would have us greeting the sunrise on that very summit before the trip was over.

Leaving the city behind, we drove southwest towards Chom Thong district. The highway gave way to a smaller rural road climbing into the hills (Route 1009, the main road up Doi Inthanon). In the back of the truck, our tents and sleeping bags bounced around next to bags of groceries. As the sun rose higher, we passed through patchworks of rice paddies and rustic villages, then dense forests as the elevation climbed. By mid-morning, we reached the national park checkpoint. We paid the entry fee and continued up the winding road, now officially inside Doi Inthanon National Park. The air immediately felt cooler and thinner. We rolled down the windows to the scent of pine and moist earth wafting in.

Setting Up Camp at Doi Inthanon

Near the main headquarters area, we found the turn-off for the campground. This designated campsite sits in the middle of the park and is the most popular option for visitors. It was a broad, grassy area dotted with tall pine trees and a few other tents. Being outside of any major holiday, it was quiet and half-empty – perfect for us. We parked and stretched our legs, relishing the temperature only in the low 20s °C. The site had plenty of space to pitch our tents, and we chose a flat spot under a pair of pine trees. The campground was well-maintained, with clean bathrooms and even showers a short walk away. There were picnic tables and fire pits available too, though we planned to use our small camp stove for cooking. A park ranger stopped by to collect the camping fee – an incredibly good deal for such a location.

Despite being a casual trip, we came prepared with warm layers. Even if it’s hot and sunny in Chiang Mai, Doi Inthanon’s higher elevations can be shockingly cold at night and at dawn. We unpacked jackets and beanies along with our sleeping gear, just to have them handy for later. For now, the late morning was pleasant and mild. After setting up, we took a quick walk to explore our immediate surroundings. The campground is only about 500 meters from Sirithan Waterfall, the nearest waterfall reachable by foot, so we decided to check it out before lunch.

A narrow dirt trail led us through lush undergrowth and mossy tree trunks toward the sound of rushing water. The walk was short and easy – just enough to stretch out after the drive. Soon, we felt a cool mist on our faces and emerged at a viewpoint for Sirithan Waterfall, a beautiful cascade hidden in the forest. Recent rains had it flowing nicely. We stood there quietly, absorbing the sight: white water tumbling down dark rocks, enveloped by thick green foliage. Ferns and wildflowers clung to the spray-soaked cliff sides. The midday sun filtering through the canopy created a gentle play of light on the falls. This waterfall isn’t large, but it has a tranquil charm. Knowing we could reach it on foot from the campsite made it feel like our own little discovery. After snapping a few photos and letting the cool breeze off the water refresh us, we headed back to camp with rumbling stomachs.

For lunch, we kept it simple – some grilled chicken and sticky rice we had bought from a market on the drive up. There was also a small park canteen near the visitor center down the road, but we opted for our packed food and fresh fruit. As we ate at a picnic table, a couple of curious birds fluttered nearby, likely hoping for crumbs. One was a bold orange and gray bird with a perky crest that we later learned is called a bar-throated minla, a species commonly found around Doi Inthanon’s high elevations. It flitted branch to branch, almost close enough to touch. We were already feeling more connected to nature – and it was only the first afternoon.

Nightfall Under the Stars

The afternoon drifted by peacefully. Some of us took catnaps in the tent, while others wandered around the campground, exploring little paths that led to viewpoints of the valley. In the late afternoon, clouds began to move in, turning the light soft and gray. We watched mist form down in the valleys below while the treetops around us still caught golden late-day sun. As sunset approached, the sky cleared up just enough to treat us to a gentle show of pastel colors. The western horizon glowed orange and pink above layers of mountain silhouettes. Doi Inthanon is known for its stunning sunsets and sunrises, and even from our campground the view did not disappoint.

That evening, we gathered around our portable stove to cook a simple dinner. Noodles and vegetables were on the menu, with a big pot of water boiling for tea and instant soup. There’s something about cooking outdoors that makes even a basic meal taste great. As daylight faded, the temperature dropped noticeably. We pulled on sweaters and jackets and welcomed the warmth of hot soup between our hands. The campground had grown quiet; only a few murmured conversations and laughter from other groups were audible, carried gently on the breeze. By 7 pm it was fully dark. We switched off our headlamps during dinner cleanup to avoid attracting insects, working by feel and faint moonlight. Without city light pollution, the darkness in the mountains was profound.

As our eyes adjusted, the night sky blossomed above us in breathtaking detail. Stars crowded every inch of the heavens. The Milky Way formed a bright gauzy band from one horizon to the other, so clear that we could distinguish its cloudy center. We laid back on a ground mat, heads resting on our packs, and just stared upward in awe. It’s not often you see the Milky Way so clearly with the naked eye – a reminder of how remote and high we were, far from any city glow. The tall silhouettes of pine trees stood still against the starry sky. Now and then a faint night breeze would stir the branches, and we’d hear the soft rustle of needles or a distant call of a nightjar echo through the forest. In that quiet moment, with the galaxy above and the cool earth beneath us, the stresses of work and city life felt a world away.

Before turning in, we made a plan for the next day. Someone posed the idea: should we try for a summit sunrise tomorrow? Initially, we hadn’t been focused on reaching the peak, but the thought of catching dawn at the highest point in Thailand was too tempting. We all agreed – a spontaneous change of plans. That’s the beauty of a flexible, casual trip. We set our alarms for a very early hour, knowing it would be a cold pre-dawn journey. Zipping into our tents and thick sleeping bags, we could feel the temperature continuing to plummet. I slept in thermal leggings and a fleece, with extra socks and a hat on – a wise move, as the midnight cold woke me up briefly with a shiver. Despite the chill, we were all excited for the morning adventure to come.

Practical Notes for Future Trips Doi Inthanon offers a gentle yet immersive introduction to mountain camping in Northern Thailand. It’s accessible, well-supported, and varied enough to satisfy both casual campers and nature enthusiasts alike.

Here are a few considerations for anyone planning a similar weekend trip:

• Getting there: The mountain is about a two-hour drive from Chiang Mai. Having your own vehicle or arranging a private driver is the most convenient option, especially if you plan to camp and explore beyond the main tourist spots. Public transport exists but is less flexible.
• Entry and camping: The national park charges an entry fee per person and vehicle. Camping fees are minimal if you bring your own gear. Tents and bedding are also available for rent at the campground. Arriving early helps secure a good spot, especially on weekends.
• Weather and clothing: Even during warm months, temperatures at higher elevations can drop sharply at night. Bring insulated clothing, a hat, and socks for sleeping. A sleeping bag with adequate cold protection is essential.
• Food and water: Basic food options are available near the campground and visitor centers, including Thai meals, grilled meats, and hot drinks. A stove is useful for flexibility, and water is available on site, though filtering or boiling it is recommended for remote spots.
• What to bring: A headlamp or flashlight is useful after sunset. Layers, a rain jacket, and good walking shoes will make your trip much more comfortable. If you plan to hike in the early morning or late evening, gloves and a scarf are a wise addition.
• Leave no trace: Campfires are not allowed, and all trash should be packed out. The park is well-cared-for, and visitors are expected to help maintain that standard. Respect for the quiet and the wildlife is a shared part of the experience.